Light in the Darkness
Bornholm Lighthouses

Text: Dorthe Lind Thornton / Pernille Koch Laursen

Foto: Anders Beier

It is commonly known that Bornholm fishermen have deliberately never learned to swim. It was easier to die by drowning if you couldn’t struggle to survive. This was the harsh reality that fishermen have had to endure for centuries and which instilled in them a deep respect for the sea. The sea was their workplace: an unpredictable force to reckon with that allowed them to land their catches in calm, sunny weather one day and mercilessly demanded that they pay for the fish with human life the next.

Bornholm’s herring markets were an enormous industry, particularly in the Middle Ages, when night fishing was also necessary. When night fell and the occasional fog shrouded their vessels, it could be difficult to see where they were in relation to the coast and how to return safely to land. They needed something to help them navigate through the darkness. The first lighthouse on Bornholm is believed to have been lit in the Middle Ages, notably during the proliferation of herring markets. This was when the first beacons were built – actually just a bonfire on a hilltop – and a beacon like that is known to have been used on the Hammer peninsula. Over time, beacons evolved; for instance, some were built on elevated brickwork structures, and some more ornate, starting to resemble more permanent beacon sites. But a beacon fire was only lit when it was needed. It wasn’t done for the pleasure and benefit of everyone but for specific seafarers at specific times. This probably explains why, when looking at old maps with depictions of shipwrecks around Bornholm, you can see that the dots indicating stranded ships, total losses and instances where crews drowned are sufficiently numerous to send a chill down the spine of even the hardiest mariners. The sea floor around Bornholm is treacherous. 

Over time, the lighting of beacon fires was phased out and replaced by lighthouses as such, as we know them today. Floating lighthouses in the form of light vessels came into being and were used wherever a lighthouse was needed but was difficult to build. Wood fuel was also replaced by coal, candles and oil, and over time experiments were conducted to improve the quality of the light emitted by the lighthouses. In 1815, the French physicist Augustin Jean Fresnel invented the most effective lighthouse lens to date as it would intensify the luminosity by up to 350 times. But even the most powerful light was quelled by dense fog, rain and snowy weather – the very same weather conditions in which sea beacons were needed the most. This also resulted in the use of an emergency solution: a very loud, regular audible signal, and with the passage of time many lighthouses came to be equipped with powerful acoustic warning devices, such as bells, foghorns, sirens and, for a while, even cannons. 

The first lighthouse on Bornholm was built in the early 19th century and many more have been added since then. Although they still play an important part in helping captains navigate the waters around Bornholm, many additional types of navigation technologies are used today. Many lighthouses have been automated and in some locations, radar, radio, sonar and satellite navigation have replaced the actual function of the lighthouse. Bornholm lighthouses that are still in use shine every day, but many have been shut down. Fortunately, the lighthouses are treasured as historical structures, and societies for their preservation have been set up in many places. Lighthouses are often tall, reliable landmarks (some even open to visitors) – and this is true on Bornholm, too, which currently has around 60 lighthouses. The majority are so small that they are rarely noticed, but others are substantial and regarded as destinations in themselves. 

The first actual lighthouse on Bornholm was Hammershus Lighthouse, erected in 1802. It was situated on Stejlebjerg on the Hammer peninsula in North Bornholm and was a hexagonal eight-metre tall lighthouse with a lamp light. It was eventually replaced by a taller lighthouse on Ørnebjerg, also on the Hammer peninsula, and was named the Hammer Lighthouse. That was one location where a lighthouse could make a decisive difference for passing ships if they got caught in a Baltic Sea storm – because ships in distress could seek shelter behind the large rocky peninsula, either to the east or to the west. The location of the lighthouse atop the desolate, wind-swept hilltop was ideal for this purpose. The lighthouse was designed to illuminate the area from an elevation of 92 metres above sea level and it was built of locally quarried granite. The master builder, Christian Wienberg, who came to the island to build the lighthouse, was so enthused by the unique, reddish Hammer granite, that he decided not to use the bricks that were the originally intended building material. This choice would eventually influence the design of lighthouses he subsequently built throughout Denmark, making the Hammer Lighthouse a unique architectural gem. The lighthouse shone for the first time on 1 March 1872, and continued until 1990, when it was closed down for financial reasons, etc. It was relit in 2011, however, as a “historic light” and has been shining ever since. The current resident of the old original lighthouse keeper’s residence is Niels-Jørn Jensen, a self-taught historian and lighthouse enthusiast. He gladly shares his knowledge on organised tours, and visitors can climb up into the lighthouse free of charge all summer long. The area around the lighthouse is fenced off so that sheep and goats can peacefully graze the area as part of nature conservation efforts. Visitors are allowed to enter the enclosed area through the gates – warmly recommended! Watching the sunset from a smooth boulder surface is a unique experience, with views across the sea and rocky landscape reminiscent of the Scottish highlands.

The evocative market town of Svaneke is situated at the north-east corner of Bornholm. The fishermen in Svaneke long struggled to get a lighthouse of their own, and in 1920, their efforts finally paid off: a sandstone-clad lighthouse was built on a rampart at Sandkås Odde near Hullenakke Harbour (now ‘Hullehavn), a natural harbour frequently used by the fishermen back then. The lighthouse was crucial for the fishermen who now had a light to guide them in the dark and a foghorn to help them navigate their way in foggy weather. In building the lighthouse, priority was also given to establishing a recreational area around the lighthouse for Svaneke residents where they could go for a walk along the coast through the then newly planted woods. The interior of Svaneke Lighthouse is not open to the public, but can be seen by renting this private summer residence. Nevertheless, views of the lighthouse can be enjoyed from the outside on an evening stroll around the point, a popular bathing spot with a café and evocative sunsets.

Further south are the new and old Dueodde lighthouses. The old lighthouse is actually made up of two lighthouses: Dueodde North and South, aka the ‘Big Lighthouse’ and the ‘Little Lighthouse’. Back then, the builders didn’t dare erect a tall lighthouse down in the dunes, so to cover the coast to both the east and west, they chose to build two. The ‘Big Lighthouse’ stands 39 metres tall and can be seen from far out at sea. It is made of granite and in many ways is architecturally reminiscent of the Hammer Lighthouse. The ‘Little Lighthouse’ is situated towards the tip of Dueodde Beach. Standing 15 metres tall, it is primarily seen by – and warns – vessels near land. The southern Little Lighthouse is now a private residence and its tower was drastically rebuilt so it resembles more of a lookout tower than a lighthouse. The northern Big Lighthouse no longer functions as a lighthouse either, but is publicly accessible for an admission fee as part of the Bornholm Tower visitor’s centre. The visitor’s centre tells the story of the vast intelligence operation based in the northern Big Lighthouse and the 70-metre-tall monitoring tower that was subsequently added on to support NATO’s monitoring of the Soviet Union during the Cold War, locally nicknamed the ‘Spy Tower’. Both towers afford fantastic views of south Bornholm. But it is actually the third tower in the area, a tall, slender white tower, just south of the Little Lighthouse down in the dunes that most people associate with Dueodde Lighthouse. It was built between 1960 and 1962 and is a landmark along the stretch of coast that has recorded the highest number of vessels to run aground or be shipwrecked. Any seasoned captain knows that the coast off of Dueodde Lighthouse is the most treacherous of all the Bornholm coastal areas. 

Upon sailing into the Port of Rønne, you can’t help but see the Church of St Nicholas with its half-timbered tower. But nearby, to the left on Havnebakken, it is also possible to see the Rønne Rear Light from 1880. This slender, white octagonal iron building is capped with a verdigris copper roof. Although the lighthouse has a balcony, it is not open to the public. The lighthouse serves no purpose today other than to grace the harbour fairway, and it has been preserved as a cultural monument. The light from this rear light has been replaced by a flashing light placed on a tall mast in the old neighbourhood behind the harbour area. 

Finally we come to the Christiansø Lighthouse. Although Christiansø Island is part of the Ertholmene archipelago north-east of Bornholm, and is theoretically not part of Bornholm, it is worth a mention. The Christiansø Lighthouse is an architectural gem and, like the Hammer Lighthouse, has been vital to shipping north of Bornholm. The lighthouse is located inside the fortified Store Tårn (Big Tower) from the 1600s, and has been operational since 1805. The Big Tower and its lighthouse had become so run-down by 2013, however, that a four-year restoration project, supported by RealDania, swung into action to breathe new life into the building. Walking around behind the three-metre-thick walls and feeling the atmosphere in the newly-refurbished structure with magnificent views of Bornholm is an experience like no other.

A unique exhibition space has been established inside both the Big Tower and the lighthouse, featuring exhibitions on Ertholmene in global and historical contexts and on the archipelago’s unique flora and fauna, as well as housing art and cultural events. The rebuilding project added a glass roof to the building’s interior, giving the space fantastic acoustics, not least for classical music and choral singing. A visit to the Big Tower is a must when visiting Christiansø Island. And, if you fancy spending the night on the islands, there is nothing more relaxing (just ask the locals!) than sitting and watching the light from the lighthouse sweep across the landscape and sea towards Bornholm, which sends back its own light from the Hammer Peninsula.

Others also read