Visual Bornholm
Published by Visual Media ApS
Designed by Miru Studio
Text: Mads Westermann Photo: Anders Beier
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” This quote is often attributed to American statesman Benjamin Franklin. Whether these words truly came from a founding father or perhaps from the mouth of a slightly tipsy country pastor during a Sunday sermon, the essence of the statement remains undeniably true.
What could be a more tangible sign of higher powers than a well-poured glass of beer on a sunny day, with blue skies above and a fleeting sense that the world is still rational and sensibly constructed? Golden, sparkling, and bursting with flavors that awaken memories and spark associations.
Few places in Denmark boast a beer culture as diverse as Bornholm’s. And relative to its population, nowhere else has as many micro and craft breweries. The island is a true paradise for beer enthusiasts, offering everything from amber-hued pilsners with a mild bitterness to stouts as dark as a Bornholm winter night.
Bornholm’s beer adventure began in the town of Svaneke. In 2000, a brewery was established in a traditional four-winged merchant’s house in the town square. Things soon took off. The premises became too small, and the brewery – just like Carlsberg once did – moved to a hill on the town’s outskirts. Here, beer is brewed under the “slow beer” philosophy. Things take the time they need. No filtration, no unnecessary chemicals. You can taste the brewmaster’s pride and soul in every drop.
But Svaneke isn’t the only place where Bornholm’s beer wave is rolling. In a backyard by the harbor in Rønne lies Small Batch Brewery. As the name suggests, they brew in small portions. What began as a hobby project is now an institution. They experiment with flavors that might make traditional pilsner drinkers shudder. There’s a coffee stout that makes your morning brew look like bog water, and an IPA with gentle bitterness that tastes like a blooming summer meadow.
In Tejn, right on the harbor, you’ll find Penyllan Brewery – more of a beer laboratory than a brewery. They experiment with wild yeast and barrel aging that borders on alchemy. Here, some of Denmark’s most complex and layered beers are created. They’re bold, vinous, sour, and often quite eccentric – but for the brave, a revelation. Penyllan is not a place for a quick beer; it’s an experience to be savored while sitting on pallet furniture in the sun, watching life unfold at the harbor.
Next door, and under the same ownership, is Beer Here. The brewmaster here refuses to be bored. They produce flavor bombs in every direction – beers you’ll either love or loathe. There is no in-between. Beer Here creates characterful, unconventional brews with a rare ability to surprise.
And finally, for those who enjoy a good surprise: there’s Chrøøl. A brewery with a name that sounds like a teenager’s burp after too many cheap beers – but the beer is anything but ordinary.
On Denmark’s military outpost to the east, Christiansø, lies the country’s most remote brewery. Here, the island’s doctor and his wife craft divine brews in ultra-small batches. They experiment with ingredients and flavors not found anywhere else. Carrots, beets, and other root vegetables find their way into the brew kettle, lending the beer a distinct character and a hint of Bornholm madness.
And now for the most important question: how do you best enjoy these liquid delights? You can, of course, visit the breweries themselves. They all offer tours and tastings, especially during summer. But even better is bringing the beer into nature. Buy a few bottles during your visit or from local stores, and set off into the landscape. For example, head to Svenskehavn on the southeast coast, where cliffs and sea form the perfect backdrop for beer enjoyment. Or take a longer hike through Blåskinsdalen and rest at the trail’s end with a view of the bird cliffs. Both spots are ideal for contemplating life’s great questions – like, “Should I have another beer?”
And most importantly: take the bottles home. For if beer truly is proof of God’s love, shouldn’t we show a little love in return – to nature, to taste, and to Bornholm?
