On the way out of Gudhjem, where most the streets are one-way, you encounter the smaller of Gudhjem’s two harbours: Nørresand (Bornholm spelling: ‘Norresân’). The harbour was completed in 1906 and served as a port of refuge for vessels along the entire northern coast of Bornholm. Right next to this small, well-ordered harbour, in which it is also possible to bathe, is a small white smokehouse, aptly named ‘Norresan Gudhjem’. This is where Pernille has created a coffee bar. This is no ordinary café, mind you, but a venue with unrivalled aesthetics and flavours. The entire end of the smokehouse overlooking the sea has been replaced with one big glass door, drawing the magnificent seascape indoors. The café serves light meals made from delicious local produce, a house gin, homemade lemonades and pastries, speciality beer from the island’s breweries, ice cream from Kalas and good, freshly brewed coffee. Besides the tastes and the pleasant setting, Pernille has another talent: she makes sure to warmly welcome her patrons, which rubs off on guests and staff alike and creates a cosy atmosphere. The views from Norresan Gudhjem are stunning. Your gaze is drawn towards Salene Bay, considered by many to be one of the loveliest spots on Bornholm. The site is also renowned for its idyllic sunsets all season long, where the sun sets on the sea as patrons enjoy tranquil views over an evening drink.
The small white smokehouse was originally a salt house, originally without its chimneys. Many years ago, fish were salted here. The chimneys were added later on in the 1800s, when local residents began producing smoked fish, inspired by the Scots, and herring, salmon and trout were smoked until golden in the small ‘Norresân’ smokehouse. After that, a fishmonger’s, ‘Ellen og mig’, was housed here, and then an organic ice cream kiosk in the now red-painted building, dubbed the ‘Sunset Kiosk’ by locals. Quite a few years ago, before Pernille got hold of this little gem and painted it white, it was owned by the Oluf Høst Museum. Pernille has been in charge for the past five years, and many are pleased about this – both tourists and a host of local residents who drop by every day. The small sightseeing boat M/S Thor sails past several times a day. The boat is more than a century old and conveys passengers from Gudhjem to the Bornholm Art Museum at Helligdomsklipperne. Along the way, passengers enjoy the bird cliffs and the stunning coastline. It’s a trip that is definitely worth taking.
A sundowner can be enjoyed on many summer evenings, as the sun sets in magnificent splendour and firewood crackles in the fire pits. Norresan is an oasis in Gudhjem, where the tourist-packed streets are sometimes hard to cope with on a summer’s day. The small white smokehouse is situated away from the big harbour where most visitors congregate. It is peaceful and beautiful here – and there’s something for everyone. Children can catch tiny fish with nets, play ball or explore the water’s edge. Adults immediately relax as they take in the scenic splendour, drink a good cup of coffee or have a bite to eat and a glass of fine wine. Norresan is a perfect place for hanging around all day – simply because it is so nice to be here.