As you drive out of Gudhjem, where most of the streets are one-way, you pass the smaller of Gudhjem’s two harbours: Nørresan. The harbour was completed in 1906 and served as a port of refuge for vessels along the entire northern coast of Bornholm. Next to the small, idyllic harbour basin, where it is also possible to bathe, is a small white smokehouse, aptly named Nørresan Gudhjem.
This is where Pernille has fitted out a coffee bar. This is no ordinary café, mind you, but a venue with unrivalled aesthetics and flavours. The entire end of the smokehouse overlooking the sea has been replaced with one big glass door, drawing the magnificent seascape indoors. Inside there are delicious sandwiches with local delicacies, a house gin, home-made elderflower juice and rhubarb lemonade, a selection of craft beer from the island’s breweries and ice cream from Sandvig IS Kalas. These are just some of items on the menu you can enjoy outdoors in good sunny weather or indoors when the sea is raging.
Besides the tastes and the pleasant setting, Pernille has another talent: she makes sure to warmly welcome her patrons, which rubs off on guests and staff alike and creates a cosy atmosphere.
The small white smokehouse was originally a salt house. Many years ago, fish were salted here. The chimneys were added later on in the 1800s, when local residents began producing smoked fish, inspired by the Scots, and herring, salmon and trout were smoked until golden in the small Nørresan smokehouse.
After that, a fishmonger’s, “Ellen og mig”, was housed here, and then an organic ice-cream kiosk in the now red-painted building, dubbed the “Sunset Kiosk” by locals. Quite a few years ago, before Pernille got hold of this little gem and painted it white, it was owned by the Oluf Høst Museum. But now Pernille calls the shots, which pleases the many people – tourists and locals alike – who drop by on a daily basis.
The views from Nørresan are magnificent. Your gaze is drawn towards Salene Bay, considered by many to be one of the loveliest spots on Bornholm. The small sightseeing boat M/S Thor sails past several times a day. The boat is more than a century old and conveys passengers from Gudhjem to the Bornholm Art Museum at Helligdomsklipperne. Along the way, passengers enjoy the bird cliffs and the stunning coastline. It’s a trip that is definitely worth taking.
On some Saturday evenings in summer, guests come here for cozy communal dinners at a long row of tables. You can also choose to enjoy a “sundowner” as the sun sets with magnificence and bonfires provide the heat.
Nørresan is an oasis in Gudhjem, where the tourist-packed streets are sometimes hard to cope with on a summer’s day. The small white smokehouse is situated away from the big harbour where most visitors congregate. Nørresan is peaceful and beautiful – and has something for everyone. Children can catch tiny fish with nets, play ball or explore the water’s edge. Adults immediately relax as they take in the scenic splendour, drink a good cup of coffee or have a bite to eat and a glass of fine wine. Nørresan is a perfect place for hanging around all day – simply because it is so nice to be here.